A hair dryer is the most underrated styling tool a man can own. A minute or two of directed air gives you more volume and hold than any amount of product on wet hair. Done badly, it leaves hair frizzy and dry. Here is the technique, what the research says about heat damage, and the dryers worth buying, from a $100 BaBylissPRO to the $400 Dyson.

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What you'll need6 products
0101Shark SpeedStyle Pro Flex Hair DryerBest valueShop →
0202Dyson Supersonic Origin Hair DryerPremiumShop →
0303Laifen Swift High-Speed Hair DryerBudget high-speedShop →
0404BaBylissPRO Nano Titanium Hair DryerClassic, with cool shotShop →
0505Conair Vent Brush Set (2 brushes)The brushShop →
0606CHI 44 Iron Guard Heat Protection Spray (8 oz)Heat protectionShop →

Is Blow-Drying Bad for Your Hair?

Not if you do it right. A 2011 study compared hair dried naturally with hair blow-dried at different distances and temperatures (Lee et al., 2011, Annals of Dermatology). Blow-drying caused more damage to the hair's surface than air-drying, but holding the dryer about 15 cm (6 inches) away and keeping it moving caused less overall damage than letting hair dry naturally.

The study also found that hair dried at very high temperatures changed color after repeated treatments. The takeaways: keep the dryer about six inches away, keep it moving, and use medium rather than maximum heat.

Step 1 — Towel-Dry Gently

Blot and squeeze the water out with a towel; don't rub hard. The less water left in your hair, the less time it needs under heat.

Step 2 — Heat Protectant, Then Product

Mist a heat protectant through damp hair before any heat. CHI 44 Iron Guard is a lightweight spray that CHI says protects hair at up to 450°F, for about $14 for 8 oz.

HEAT PROTECTION
CHI 44 Iron Guard Heat Protection Spray (8 oz)
Lightweight spray — rated to 450°F — 8 oz — $14
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If you use a pre-styler such as sea salt spray or a light cream, put it in now, while your hair is damp.

Step 3 — Rough-Dry With Your Fingers

On medium heat, dry about 80% of the way using just your fingers, lifting at the roots. Keep the dryer about six inches from your head and keep it moving.

Step 4 — Direct the Shape

Now decide where you want your hair to sit, and point the air that way, from roots to ends.

A vented brush makes this much easier, because air passes through it instead of around it. The Conair vent brush set is two brushes, full-size and mid-size, with ball-tipped bristles that won't snag, for about $9.

THE BRUSH
Conair Vent Brush Set (2 brushes)
2 vented brushes — ball-tipped bristles — non-slip grip — $9
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Step 5 — Lock It In With Cool Air

Finish with the cool setting for 20 to 30 seconds over the shape you've made. Hair holds the shape it cools in, so the cool shot is what makes a blow-dry last.

Step 6 — Finish With Product

Work a small amount of clay, paste or pomade through dry hair to add texture and hold. Our best hair clay guide covers the options.

Which Dryer to Buy

The Shark SpeedStyle Pro Flex is the best value at about $149 (sold by Amazon). Shark says it measures temperature 1,000 times a second and never goes above 230°F. It also has a Scalp Shield mode that lowers the temperature for drying at the roots, and a handle that folds in half for travel.

THE ONE WE'D BUY
Shark SpeedStyle Pro Flex Hair Dryer
High-velocity — capped at 230°F — Scalp Shield mode — folding handle — $149
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The Dyson Supersonic Origin is the premium pick at about $400 (sold by Amazon). Dyson says it measures the air temperature more than 40 times a second to prevent extreme heat. It comes with a magnetic styling concentrator that stays cool to the touch.

PREMIUM
Dyson Supersonic Origin Hair Dryer
Heat measured 40+ times a second — magnetic concentrator — negative ions — $400
SHOP ON AMAZON →

The Laifen Swift is the budget high-speed option at about $112. It has a 110,000 RPM brushless motor, temperature monitoring up to 100 times a second, and runs at a rated 59 dB (sold by Laifen Direct). Prefer a traditional dryer? The BaBylissPRO Nano Titanium is a 2000-watt classic with six heat and speed settings, a locking cool-shot button and a 9-foot cord, for about $100.

FAQ

Should men blow-dry their hair?

If you want volume, hold or a specific shape, yes. A dryer sets your hair's shape far better than product on wet hair.

How far away should I hold the hair dryer?

About 15 cm (6 inches), and keep it moving. A 2011 study found this caused less damage than letting hair dry naturally.

Should I use hot or cold air?

Medium heat to dry and shape, then the cool setting for 20 to 30 seconds to set the style.

Do I need an expensive hair dryer?

No. Technique matters more than the dryer. Pricier high-speed dryers mainly dry faster and regulate heat more closely.

Comparing dryers? See our best hair dryer for men and Dyson hair tools guides.

Sources: Lee et al., 2011, Annals of Dermatology